THE best way to unpack Matty Bovan’s SS20 show is to start at the very end. For the final walk, models were accompanied by Ian van Dahl’s electro-dance anthem, Castles in the Sky. As the music pulsated throughout the space, the lyrics became clear for the audience: “Do you ever question your life? Do you ever wonder why? Do you ever see in your dreams? All the castles in the sky.”
These questions, doubts and uncertainty are all at the very core of the 29-year-old designer’s eclectic SS20 collection. Named Hope and Fear, the show paints a picture of a society on the precipice of an unknown future. Capturing this dystopian thought-process is the evolution of both stylistic and design techniques. From the outset, accessories like the full face visors suggest a theme of unclear vision, distorting the recognizably human features of several models including Fran Summers.
In collaboration with Liberty London, Bovan took a deep dive into their print archives to enhance the visual spectacle of each look. Layered fabrics (tulle, silk and nylon notably), retro prints and dynamic tailoring all played a massive part in creating a show with a distinct meaning. The designer also worked with luxury eyewear brand, Cutler and Gross. Many models sported vintage frames that evoked a futuristic element.
The most awe-inspiring looks were thee massive oversized skirts and dresses embellished with Bovan’s mothers own hand-made jewellery, structurally solid with a sturdy base. These massive design-works show Bovan’s impressive ability to see in multi-dimension as well as his drive to push boundaries, both figuratively and literally. Wearable? Perhaps not. But through the lens of artistic innovation, Matty Bovan continues to reign supreme.
by Maria Noyen