IN THE derelict basement of Shoreditch’s old Town Hall, Chopova Lowena decided to bring us the rage of America’s heroines for spring-summer 2025.
Looking back at the showgirls and the ones on horseback in the Wild West, and taking the glitter and corsets of one archetype and bringing it together with studs, denim and of course leather of the other, the main ingredients of next season were found.
But in true Chopova Lowena fashion, the recipe of the brand’s genre-defying aesthetic balances Laura Lowena’s pull to sports with Emma Chopova’s love of traditional folklore. Enter the references of Victorian England.
Bloomers, frilly smock shirts and medallions brought us a segment of the past, but pushing this idea forward, the design duo had their friends and family walk down the halls of the building in chukaboo twos reflecting fairies, witches, heroes or villains – just as they did in Victorian Halloween traditions.
Touching on this in the show notes, the designers wrote: “It’s not just stage play: every girl becomes a woman and must choose the costume she’ll wear for the world, reinventing herself every day in her wardrobe”.
Coming out of the Olympic summer and with an eye for sportswear, naturally Lowena felt a pull to this sports affair. This season, she felt an affinity to the beauty of their armour – the garments made to look beautiful and yet entirely designed to ensure precision. From rhinestone swimwear, to boldly printed stretch two-piece short sets and even vintage warm-up gear pieces like arm warmers, the Chopova Lowena girl will be ready to cartwheel wherever she goes.
But this collection wouldn’t be finished without a plethora of accessories to match the fierce collection and naturally a mayonnaise collaboration too. Partnering with the famed Hellmann’s brand for the Margaret bag – literally designed to carry a jar of the condiment around – the pair have come together to ensure you never leave the house without something tasty.
The brand isn’t one to do something meaningless and gimmicky, rather they are paying homage to Margaret Hellmann who came up with the recipe 111 years ago, pioneering the culinary field and still dominates it to this day.
With a spoon in hand, Chopova Lowena has partnered with ASICS too for a footwear collab. Reimagining the classic GEL Quantum 360 VIII, Chopova Lowena has decorated them in butterflies, flowers and studs to exemplify the aesthetic to comfortable trainers – and with proceeds of the sale going to the 999 Club charity who supports those with urgent mental health support in East London.
As the universe of rebellious girls expands as they strut around in their pleated carabiner-hooked skirts, it seems there is no stopping the cult of Chopova Lowena. With perfumes on the horizon and the clear expansion of this universe continuing, the only thing to do is to grab some mayonnaise from your cupboard and join them!
by Imogen Clark