After the sleek triumph of the SS15 ten-year anniversary collection, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni faced the challenge of surpassing her own stroke of pared-back brilliance. Although some elements prevailed – the raw hems and cleaner cuts – we couldn’t help but be a bit disappointed. The effortlessness and X-factor were just not comparable.
Featuring tan and white sleeveless tunic and flares combos, the 70s infused opening looks had a safari-nomad touch, accentuated by belted waists and cross-body python bags worn at an archer-like diagonal. These silhouettes remained, yet grew more detailed, and progressively warmer, layered with skintight polo-necks in rust, burgundy, teal and sage green, and distorted by great fur sleeves and placement patches in muted ombré hues, adding an almost sculptural element.
Furthering the African vibe, kaftan dresses and coats introduced naïve palm leafs, hand-drawn stripes and abstracted prints to the mix – the navy, brown and crisp white combination one of our favourites.
A sweet powder pink coat entered the catwalk towards the end of the collection, challenging and confusing the narrative. The looks to follow, with the exception of further printed success stories, felt heavy, like a bit of an afterthought.
by Elisabeth Krohn
Images courtesy of Style.com