MIUCCIA Prada and Raf Simons defined the work of fashion as ‘the process of defining the meaning of beauty, for today’. Their partnership at Prada has set a new tone within the industry as simplicity, tradition and collision have been the starting points for their collections, reflecting a world who demands, or more accurately yearns, for understated extravagance.
For autumn-winter 2022, the design duo delve into the everyday placing an emphasis on pragmatism. A trend of fitted white vests with the famous triangular logo at the centre are worn in many of the looks – a clever approach at the new-normal, but more noticeably, a genius move for sales as it soon becomes an immediate must-have next season, and one surely to do the rounds on social media.
Sparkly metallic mesh dresses worn over the tank tees, plain turtleneck t-shirts with cashmere sweaters and strappy pointed-toe mid height heels came together to highlight the dissection of fashion, highlighting their aim to look at the raw structure of the basics.
But in true Miuccia and Raf style, an extreme injection of tailoring was noticed disturbing the vernacular of the pieces.
The everyday met evening-wear in this collection, playfully balancing fantasy with reality as oversized MA1 jackets were belted to accentuate the waist and given a wave of feathers around the shoulder, while a structured, hyper masculine grey flannel blazer played with the same motif as a cuffs of feathers adorned both the upper arms.
Boat necks were seen either modest as intended or sensually drooping down, and silhouettes either focused on petiteness or delved into extremes returning back to the dialogue imposed when Raf and Miuccia came together – exploring how the architecture of clothes affects the rapport with the body.
With past Prada collections hinted at from the start, the approach to history was a universal one as the designers instigated trends but also focused on combining heritage with today – because how far is the past really from us? Famous geometric prints were turned into heavy jacquard knits and embroideries, while the colours echoed on bags, hemming and tops.
So, if fashion defines the beauty of today, what does this collection say? It speaks volumes for our want for statement pieces but more notably, our lives have changed and the everyday is far more exciting than the occasional party.
Your white tank can be your ongoing constant but change it up with an eccentric bomber, opaque dress or even some feathers if you’re feeling bold.
by Imogen Clark