CREATIVE director Francesco Risso puts the spotlight on the so-called neuro-tribe movement, a term coined by Risso himself, also referred to as the elephant in the room of modern society. Marni explores this new youth of atypical, rebellious and extravagant individuals in his AW19 collection that ticks all three boxes.
The collection started on the more conventional side, but this was only the calm before the storm, one of very bold prints. The first models came strutting down the runway wearing oversized suits in navy and neutrals, but soon enough prints inspired by the Allegro Non Troppo film started making their way on the runway.
Credits: Guillaume Roujas for Nowfashion
 Oversized grunge-like shirts made their appearance with floppy bucket hats finishing off the looks, setting the tone for the rest of the show: weird but intriguing. From this point on, it only got crazier, and we loved every second – or look – of it. We started to dip our toe into the world of prints with an oversized all-white look, paired with a silk shirt in a patchwork of prints and completed with a leopard-print scarf. From there on, we took a walk on the wild side. Silk leopard print wide trousers, blazers, and oversized long double-breasted coats. The latter, paired with a white knit two-piece, slowly introduced us to the next chapter of the Marni AW19-show: knit.
Credits: Guillaume Roujas for Nowfashion
Credits: Guillaume Roujas for Nowfashion
Cream knit trousers, fluffy striped jumpers and a personal favourite – a pink knit two-piece – was the last step before it hit absolute Marni mania. It was as if Francesco Risso had taken up the challenge of 100-layers of clothing, as male models came down the runway dressed in not one but two jackets, paired on top of multiple jumpers and tops. Topping each other off with more colour, texture and prints. More is more.
Credits: Guillaume Roujas for Nowfashion
After the layering madness, Risso took it back a notch, and honed in on some serious nineties vibes with more muted down, oversized looks. Read: Extremely baggy dyed jeans, thick knit jumpers, snakesprint shirts, oversized suits and tacky leather trousers, with a black matrix-esque coat topping it all off.
There was a lot to see and digest but in the end its was a march of contemporary cool.
by Lupe Baeyens
Photographs: Guillaume Roujas for Nowfashion
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