MFWM SS25: Gucci  

True to form, Sabato De Sarno’s Spring 2025 offering leans into a shifting, freeing view of masculinity. 

THOUGH Gucci sells globally in cities and suburbs alike, the best part of Sabato De Sarno’s Spring 2025 outing seemed to address the perennial conundrum of what to wear for summer between the city and nature. Striking a balance on those dog days is no mean feat: opt for comfort and you look as if you’d rather be countryside, yet an attempt at polish can yield a clammy mess. 

De Sarno’s answer is smart, winsome staples cut loose and breezy, like long woollen coats or pieces in bonded leather with vertical pockets—both on-trend and functional, since there’s nothing to impede an uptown strut.

The adorable, earth-tinged formal wear also has a pavement-pounding appeal. And to cover up: a sporty slew of outerwear which unfolded in two categories, one with sharp three-button single-breasted suits that have a high break line and pressed sleeves to keep the silhouette sharp; the other, with chic, straight yet relaxed double-breasted jackets, cut from light poplin textures.

The pastel group that opened the show felt like a fresh idea for Spring, and the silhouettes cycled through various colours including a vibrant green and subtle pink. Though for prints, the cooler option borrowed an intarsia of paillettes, emblazoned on jackets, in sorbet tones of yellow, adorned with beaded fringe that moves like waves. 

In keeping with that relaxed spirit, nearly all looks, trousers included, were built with a sweet yet soul-driven spirit. Referencing the element of encounters, the lineup ultimately leans into freedom. “I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart,” De Sarno noted.

“I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes.” This season seems to have lent these clothes somewhat preternatural coolness. Speaking of which, global sportswear phenomenon and former world champion Serena Williams very much concurs.

“It was a beautiful collection indeed, I think Sabato is a great designer and made everything feel so light,” Williams told Glass post-show, expressing admiration with no signs of peacocking braggadocio on display. “I love the light blue suit he created this season, even though it wasn’t really for me but I could totally vibe in that,” she said, expanding on how the accessories won the race. “A lot of the bags were nice, the purple shoes were really cool, and there were so many details that worked such as the browns, which I found gorgeous,” she concluded. 

There was a covetable lightness to these pieces that makes one wonder where they could be taken to next. Standouts included blazers with a just-sp ratio to structure; rakish jackets; badass embossed volumes.

One pair of wide-legged trousers with a buttoned tab to hold the ankle typified the sharp yet unfussy appeal of De Sarno’s direction. With his focus on perfecting essentials, it looks as though he’ll stay this appealing course. Put plainly—it’s sure to provide him a lot more aficionados for the long haul.

by Chidozie Obasi