KNITWEAR and cowhide opened the latest 3.1 Phillip Lim AW18 collection at NYFW. Rich blue and pink yarns make up the first striped knit dress, with many to follow. Clashed with a cowhide jacket and printed bag, the initial outfits allow us to relish a nomadic influence before the yarns rich colours dilute, becoming soft, pastel tones. This change in colour brings a new ambiance, as the collection becomes reminiscent of early ‘00s fashion, following the trend of many others this season.
Utilising floor-length hems and turtlenecks, Lim has elongated the model’s silhouettes, enhancing this effect with vertical stripes and rib knits. Depth from layered garments is stunted by the excessive use of pastel tones. Colour blocking and hems allow us to understand the garment shapes but the monotonous pastels and materials leave a flat illusion. As development continues, knitwear takes a back step making room for purposefully creased and pleated looks. Continuing the pastel tones, soft tailored garments bring an effortless air, supported by the relaxed styling.
Charcoals and browns soon dominate pastel colours, bringing an abrupt end to the collections exaggerated femininity. Boxy blazers and gathered baby-doll dresses layered on top of trousers briefly knock the vibes of the collection back to the ‘90s, as the work-wear inspired looks are synonymous with trends of the time. A variety of floral and checked prints come as the collection draws to a close. The final looks being a range of reimagined scarf dresses, with clashing patterns and asymmetric, block colour garments giving a contemporary update.
by Todd Burns