ALL good things must come to an end. This is the case for Boss as Jason Wu announced, prior to the AW18 collection, that he would be leaving Boss to concentrate solely on his own brand. Appointed creative director of the company in 2013, he has concentrated in promoting and improving the womenswear line. In his final show, Wu confessed his aim was to showcase a collection that is ‘representative of the brand’s excellent craftsmanship and tailoring known from menswear translated to womens’– and he didn’t disappoint.
Construction and practicality seemed key when designing the collection, as the collections accessibility contributes to its overall success. Opening with relaxed tones of charcoal, navy and Persian blue, a mature aesthetic is contemporised with subtle checks and bold zebra print. Work wear is an influence often associated with Boss collections, and this was one was no exception. Asymmetric suits appeal to the androgynous trend favoured by many and clearly indicates Wu’s attempt at utilising menswear tailoring techniques for the womenswear collection.
The collection oozes masculinity as dark colours and hard tailoring have menswear connotations, but femininity comes in the form of delicate materials and statement colours. The simplicity of garment silhouettes allows the materials used to do the talking as sheened silks in vibrant blue and soft yellows make for a number of show stopping looks. Small accents of neon orange appear as piping and discreet stitching, lending a sporty aesthetic that compliments the overall sophistication. Slight fabric manipulation is noted throughout and concludes the collection, with the final look adorned with long silk strips, marking the end of Jason Wu’s five-year reign at Boss.
by Todd Burns