DESPITE Farringdon’s slightly dirty and very industrial look, its core is very much centred around a hearty love for meat. Best for known Smithfield’s Meat Market – which has been running since medieval times – its culinary allies have attempted to triumph its history, with one, in particular, doing quite a good job at it (hint: Fergus Henderson’s joint). But there may be a hidden hero amongst the carnivores going by the name of Origin City.
Situated neatly tucked away on the south side on W Smithfield, is a family-run restaurant focused on elevating the rustic idea of nose to tail through a fine-dining experience. Think white tablecloths, thin-rimmed glasses and an open kitchen. But its not pretentious. It’s just honest.
Interior of Origin City
Covering 600 acres of Argyll, Scotland, the family (who aren’t named for some reason) runs an organic farm that breeds favoured stock such as Black Aberdeen Angus cows, Tamworth pigs and Texel lambs. Ensuring quality and care runs at the forefront of the menu, its seafood offering comes from its sister aquafarm, Loch Fyne Oysters.
With an eye for detail, the restaurant continues its promise of precision by owning a vineyard in Provence – Château de la Cômbe – that has an impressive catalogue of award-winning wines to continue the flex of farm (albeit of grapes) to plate.
Chefs pass
With all the ingredients quite frankly indisputably fresh and organic, its Executive Chef Graham Chatham, previously at The Langham, was given the great pleasure of creating a menu that didn’t take away from these characteristics or contribute to any waste. An animal needs to be celebrated in its entirety – and quite rightly so.
Equipped with its own in-house butcher and ageing facility, the team here has the ability to perfect any cut and ensure any offal can be turned into something new. So as you can imagine, my expectation was high.
Beginning with a bottle of Domaine De La Cômbe Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, my first choice was to pick a snack to gain an entry point of what was to come. Offering a handful of elevated bar snacks, I chose the Crispy Brawn with Malt Vinegar Mayonnaise. What arrived were five tender mouthfuls of lightly pink beef that packed the right balance of crunch and acidity that makes you look at your partner across the table and nod slightly in agreement of satisfaction.
Interior of Origin City
For starters, fish was our focus. Half dozen Loch Fyne Oysters and Hot Smoked Salmon – though if you’re adamant to keep it meaty then you can choose from Grilled Morteau sausage or poached Black Pig loin.
But back to the fish. Salty, tender and comforting, are a trio of adjectives that apply to both dishes. One’s simple Scottish prime seafood and the other proved that they understood combinations beyond the meadows by adding a cauliflower bhaji to be the opening mouthful – don’t worry vegetables aren’t too shunned here.
Cote de Boeuf
For our mains, we chose the weekly special of Calf’s Liver and their famous Steak Tartare with a side of Beef Dripping Chips and Creamed Mash – I am aware this isn’t a meal for those looking for something light.
With scatters of fish placed politely on their menu like Seared stone bass and Grilled Scottish lobster with bone marrow butter, there are alternatives for those who prefer not to feast like a gluttonous king – however, if you’re vegan or vegetarian it may be wise to stay clear of a place that prides themselves on butchery.
Steak Tartare
Quality ingredients will always speak volumes for a dining experience and this dinner certainly said a lot. Owning its own taste in a way as its menu is ultimately a product of its commitment to sustainable farming, Origin City may technically be a new name on the block but it has scrubbed up well on creating pretty faultless adaptions of the classics. And if that was a weeknight dinner, I can’t wait to try their Sunday roast.
by Imogen Clark
Origin City, 12 West Smithfield, London EC1A 9JR