ALL for one and one for all. Ann Demeulemeester showcased a full monochromatic collection for AW18. Debuting during PFW, our attention focused on accessories instantly. Set against the matte-black garments, thigh-high boots, elongated gloves and an abundance of belts in polished leather look as if they could be sported by The Three Musketeers.
Masculinity dominates the collection due to the connotations of colours and materials used, however, feminine undertones are notable. Deep V-necks and sheer fabric expose the female form, with cinched waists and bare shoulders further amplifying the feminine qualities. White-poplin shirts break up the overpowering black and touch on the French-Musketeer aesthetic the collection had adopted. A touch of fetishism can be noted also, due to the use of leather in masses and strapping belts.
A range of interesting silhouettes comes from fabric manipulation and layering. Gathering and ruffling adds volume to the collection, juxtaposed with hooded tops and sharp shoulder pads that emphasised the natural form. Layers upon layers contribute to singular looks resulting in a dramatic effect, taken further with additional capes trailing behind various models.
by Todd Burns