SACAI succeeded in creating a mash-up of all things streetwear and sportswear for their AW18 collection at PFW, with a touch of high-school nostalgia thrown in there too. From previous seasons, Sacai have built a reputation for their innovation with garment deconstruction, confidently creating hybrids of various garments with a contemporary outcome. No different was their AW18 collection, as from the first look, high-shine puffers and M1 bomber jackets layer upon one another.
Blazers and skirts evoked school uniforms, adorned with candy stripes and tartan for a graphic aesthetic. The addition of print synonymous with Native American fabrics featured as well – briefly, revisited towards the collection’s finale. Colour is constantly evolving in correlation to various garments introduced as part of the deconstructed looks. As the looks progressed, khaki green turns indigo, as denim is introduced followed by an abundance of brown furs.
Through featuring recognisable traits of the garments that contribute to one look, Sacai’s founder, Chitose Abe has allowed us to understand and appreciate the deconstruction process. Corduroy lapels from hunting jackets and rib-knit cuffs indicate the garments’ previous forms. Aesthetic influence from sportswear is notable while appealing to streetwear trends popular this season. The collection drew to a close with a return to bold stripes, styled with animal- print boots that featured throughout the looks.
by Todd Burns