PFW AW20: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood

SHOWCASED beneath the Baroque ceilings of the decadent Hôtel de Ville in Paris, the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s AW20 collection quintessentially comprised avant-garde, rebellion and self-expression.

Strings of dried chillies and garlic bulbs dangled from models necks, emblematic of the designer’s ambition to “expel the evil spirits which are around”.

Accessories exuded maximalism, with a vibrant coloured feather hat, extravagant veils and large earrings in the shape of the number nine to illustrate “universal love, spiritual law and spiritual awakening, and service to mankind” as stated in the show notes.

Flamboyant silhouettes harmonised with the majestic grandeur of the venue, while bust-enhancing dresses, glossy corsets and rich hues of blue and purple evoked the brand’s signature regal aesthetic. The collection experimented with an ample array of prints and textures, with an excess of satin, wool and silk – with floral and  graffiti patterns – as well as tartan.

For the grand finale, Bella Hadid sauntered down the runway in a completely sheer bridal gown, exquisite yet unconventional, composed of floral embroidered lace, puff-ball sleeves and a scalloped hemline. A satin blush pink corset cinched her slender waist, accompanied by a dark brown belt wielding a dagger for a compelling fusion of satire and mystique. 

Marking his ninth collection while at the creative helm, Andreas Kronthaler primarily aims to combine innovation and tradition, adhering with the very essence of the Vivienne Westwood’s core values and stylistic mode while incorporating his own sense of style, fluidity and flair.

by Cara Jenkins

Images: Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION