IN THE Chanel FW26 Couture collection, florals for winter appear in strikingly original form. Towering roots twist into great green vines that frame the entrance to Chanel’s mystical world, as statuesque women pass through the gates for the Haute Couture show. The setting feels like stepping into an enchanted forest, where nature has been meticulously staged and stylised, yet still retains an air of danger and wonder.
Throughout the collection, Creative Director Matthieu Blazy draws on the poems and fairy tales we read as children, using familiar motifs and symbols to illuminate the very real stories women face each day. These references are not merely decorative; they become a means of preparing women for contemporary realities, armouring them in looks that are both romantic and resilient. Creeping vines embroidered across jackets twist into the shapes of bears, while buttons quietly transform into tiny swans, turning each garment into a narrative rather than a simple piece of clothing.
Stepping back from the spectacular stage of poisonous ivy and oversized flora, the true artistry emerges in the cut and craftsmanship of the garments. Deep slashes and carefully considered openings carve through the fabric, creating a perfectly imperfect construction that moves fluidly with the body.
These silhouettes are designed to accompany a modern odyssey, offering drama and structure while remaining versatile enough to transition from grand occasions to everyday life. This balance between fantasy and function becomes one of the collection’s defining achievements.
The most captivating pieces are the shoes. Heels are transformed into slender stalks that seem to grow from the ground, some tipped with glints of gold that catch the light as the models move. One pair even features a miniature Jack poised to climb the beanstalk, dressed in a bright yellow coat and waving towards the audience. The detail feels almost cinematic, particularly as he appears to greet the front row, where guests including Pedro Pascal and Tilda Swinton look on.
In these moments, the collection playfully collapses the distance between storybook imagination and haute couture reality, making every step down the runway part of a larger tale.
by Ellis Dowle