PFW SS15: Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille is a designer that, to the best of his ability, is able to restore order to a season in the fashion calendar when certain elements of fashion week sometimes are a little too off the wall for their own good. Serving up pastel-brushed chicness for SS15, the master dressmaker’s riskier ready-to-wear techniques worked this season, easing in more informal leisure-wear with more care in comparison to AW14. He also worked a whole lot of sex appeal into the mix, which had all the right qualities to unify the collection as a more studied selection of separates, something which the couture go-to now understands is an important part of RTW.

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There was still a definitive trace of couture’s high drama, you’ll probably pick up on it in the Rocky Balboa robes that made for some serious statement gowns in short or long lengths of sequinned satin, often oversized and belted with prize winning gladiator chains, all defining sass. Other more classic gowns continued elements of this statement look, but distilled it for a more sensible, yet with no less impact, grace.

Moving on from the fearless warrior princess crusade, Mabille then decided to expose her as much as decently possible with skimpy mesh slips. As for our two cents, we imagine that this collection will see him through to next season a little more triumphantly compared to last, let’s just hope his RTW rise continues.

by Liam Feltham

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