SACAI is a brand of quick evolution, attaining a contemporary stance on clothing since its birth just ten years ago. Chitose Abe is to thank for that matter, having a mindset which infuses staple sartorial codes with quirky structures and new expositions of the silhouette. Such an approach was evident in Paris yesterday, as the Japanese designer unveiled her SS19 collection. Wardrobe must-haves were everywhere in sight, serving as building blocks upon which Abe could experiment with cut and colour. The final result? An asymmetrical, hybrid-style uniform.
The collection opened with clean white. Scattered structures set the tone for experimental outerwear – jackets appeared to blend between tuxedos and waistcoats and shorts were topped with an apron style fixture. The intention was clear: this was Abe’s fashioned take on a futurist shape, and we predict that it’s going to have good effect. An instant structural satisfaction? Perhaps not, but her purposely discombobulated designs were different and fun. Isn’t that what fashion is all about?
Sacai’s shapely statements continued, quickly evolving across a coloured realm. Khaki proved to be a favoured hue for Abe, colouring slanted, sleeveless bomber capes, geared-up waistcoats and flowing pleated skirts. The notion of styling such garments together might have sounded discerning on paper, but to the eye, it was rather charming. The reason for this? Abe was catering to a lot of tendencies across each look, and she wasn’t afraid to disseminate the borders between style settings. Flowing tulle skirts with ultra layered rugby shirts further affirmed that matter. You could almost hear Abe shouting from the sidelines: “why not?” – and her question was a valid one.
And so for SS19, Sacai took a strong stance on contemporary femininity. It manifested itself across jagged floral dresses, patchwork composed blouses and trench coat veils – offering a constant subversion of shape and tradition, but a synonymous projection of confidence and ease. No doubt about it, these clothes are modern, and sure to turn heads. But most importantly – they’re intelligent items, and certainly wearable ones for the women who dare. 2019, Sacai is ready for you.
by Faye Fearon