PFW SS21: Acne Studios

INSTEAD of seeing the extreme change in daily lives, Creative Director Jonny Johansson of Acne Studios looked at the world’s current state as a transitional period of hope.

As everything is uncertain, he believes these are “in-between times that are alive with possibility” – an exciting and different perspective to start designing from.

The SS21 collection is all about liberation and renewal. Taking a spiritual stance to clothing, the concept of creating clothes that ease from day-to-night comes from Johansson wanting to blur time. Unlike previous Acne collections, this one is steeped in experimentation with a particular focus on material choice.

Choosing unique textures that interact with the light such as iridescent paper and cracked leather that changes appearance from sunlit to moonlit lighting, appearing matte and then shiny as the day progresses gives this show and the customer some serious excitement.

The collection also welcomes a collaboration with LA-based artist Ben Quinn; known for his art that revolves around psychedelic and supernatural themes.

A painting by Quinn of a pulsating star is printed onto a metallic organza tunic, a linen two-piece and a variety of tops. Taking this image further, it is transformed into a patchwork that sheer dresses and skirts are created from.

Further utilising and manipulating fabrics in the SS21 collection, crotchet knits become fishnets tops, skirts and even knickers to be used to layer in true Acne style. Slouchy tailoring, wide-cut trench coats and apron tops all contribute to the brand’s impressive ability to create stylish clothes that can be worn daily with each piece being an investment.

The SS21 Acne Studios collection gave hope that next summer life may be different but there is hope that there is a new beauty in the darkness. The beauty is mystical and cannot yet be pinpointed but it’s definitely shiny.

by Imogen Clark 


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