THE AGENCY of the underground clubbing scene has reached its peak in recent years within fashion, art and music, so on reflection it was only a matter of time before it took over Haute Couture. As ambitious as ever, Pierpaolo Piccioli used nightclubbing as the central theme for his latest collection for Valentino, taking clients on a considered journey through sexuality, and fine craftsmanship.Â
Piccioli embraces the worlds he perceives are shared by clubbing and couture: extravagance, beauty, energy, and the idea of clothing as a form of transformation. These ideals certainly make a diversion from a usual Valentino Couture collection.Â
Though usually we are accustomed to seeing bright colours, endless yards of silk taffeta and voluminous garments, Piccioli instead proposes a much more body-conscious silhouette with sheer mesh, cut outs and careful draping revealing elements of the body. An essence of the avant-garde is introduced with colour-clashing ruffles and spherical skirts, with most looks being accessorised with leather opera-length gloves, continuing the dialogue of sexuality and fetish which is so often played upon in the underground clubbing scene.Â
Though granted, Piccioli has changed inspirational trajectory slightly, that isn’t to say the pieces aren’t distinctly Valentino. The expertly crafted gowns, colour-blocking and abundance of materials and patterns make it easy to pick out in a crowd, and brand the clothing without a single logo.
Another thing Piccioli has perfected in this collection, and it’s certainly welcomed, is the super-short silhouette, one so rarely seen in couture. From mini dresses to skirts the size of a belt – as paraphrased from the queen of clubs, Paris Hilton – Piccioli has opened up his ventures to a more universal age group, and one we hope to see on every red carpet this summer.Â
It’s hard to say if these clothes will in fact end up on the dance floor, but Valentino we beg you give us this fantasy, even if just in a campaign.Â
by Ben Sanderson