AT LOEWE’s Spring/ Summer 2027 show, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered their clearest articulation yet of what the house might become under their direction.
Staged inside a temporary circular theatre at the Château de Vincennes, the collection brought together the designers’ American instincts with Loewe’s deeply rooted Spanish craft tradition. The result was neither a rejection of the house’s past nor a nostalgic return to their Proenza Schouler beginnings, but a considered attempt to reconcile the two.
The collection’s central tension was between the familiar and the unexpected. New England sportswear – polos, boat shoes, baseball caps, anoraks etc. – was repeatedly disrupted by details that made the ordinary feel strange. Polo shirts were twisted and worn backwards; classic collars were rendered in glossy resin; basketball jerseys became beaded chiffon dresses.
Leather was treated not as an obvious luxury material but disguised as cotton, shirting and everyday outerwear. In each case, recognisable clothing became a vehicle for Loewe’s extraordinary craftsmanship.
Spanish references ran beneath the American vocabulary. Baroque ornament, painterly motifs, floral embroidery and sensual draping gave the collection a distinctly European richness, preventing its sportswear references from becoming straightforward Americana. The designers’ interest lies precisely in this friction: the practicality and ease of American clothing meeting the drama, history and material intelligence of a Spanish luxury house.
The accessories reinforced that strategy. The Puzzle was elongated into a lighter East-West proposition, while the Amazona continued in a softer, more relaxed form. New bags, sculptural shoes and oversized buckles suggested that the designers are not simply creating seasonal novelties, but gradually establishing a new system of Loewe codes.
SS27 is the season where the design duo stop asking “how do we make Loewe ours?” and start answering “this is what our Loewe person wears.” That distinction is important. Their first two collections demonstrated an ability to make spectacular objects; this one demonstrates an understanding of how those objects can inhabit a wardrobe. SS27 is consequently less about reinvention than consolidation. If the house’s next chapter is still being written, this is the point at which its new handwriting becomes recognisable.
by Imogen Clark