THE GREAT GATSBY can eat his heart out. Staying true to form, Elie Saab’s Couture SS18 collection didn’t hold back on details. With the 1920s being an obvious inspiration, Saab has utilised techniques and textile of the era but has modernised with silhouettes. Breaking away from the unfitted flapper dress cliché, dresses are more slim line, celebrating the model’s natural shape. Undertones of a ‘70s influence surface shift to funkier music bring a connection between Saab’s dress cuts and fashion of the time.
It wouldn’t be an Elie Saab couture collection without an abundance of embellishment, and this season was no exception. Multiple beading and embroidery techniques designed in a variety of patterns allow each dress to have a unique personality. A heavy flow of feathers compliment the soft blush and grey tones used throughout and supply the collection with movement. Saab’s heavy use of lightweight materials such as chiffon and tulle contribute to animating the collection. A small selection of punchy reds and black lends an edge to the feminine collection.
The essence of the flapper dress is seen throughout the collection, with plunging V-necks styled with elongating necklaces are synonymous with the period, as are the beaded caps completing some looks. Floor-length hems and long sleeves bring a contemporary spin allowing the collection to be more accessible with today’s trends. Large bows tied around necks assist with adding a fresh twist to the historic inspirations. The final look stole the show, walking the full runway independently, its elegance was emphasised and appreciated.
by Todd Burns