PFWM AW24: Berluti

BERLUTI is a brand marked by its luxurious shoemaking legacy, but for over a decade its finery has inhabited the halls of leather goods and ready-to-wear – and their autumn-winter 2024 collection shows they are as comfortable as ever.

Craftsmanship, light elegance and high-end dress sets a foundational and guiding tone as Berluti re-imagines the gentleman’s look into an everyday proposal of a cotton-silk-infused speckled denim suit, a dove grey hooded jacket crafted in patinated leather, and tracksuits knitted in wool and silk.

The presentation is a celebration of the adaptability of Berluti tailoring, and their elevated use of stripe and check motifs, composed from the label’s signature patterns.

The colour scheme transitions from autumnal shades of mousy grey and auburn to instead a dove grey and icy blues reflective of an arctic climate.

Utility is a clear theme – whether it be in the Shadow sling bag, backpack or belt bag, all knitted in cashmere and panelled in leather at the back. The Jour Pillow is Berluti’s offering of an overnight bag, lined with its recognisable Scritto detailing and crafted in grained, stretched leather.

Berluti shoes can’t help but steal the show, and new Skyrunning trainers debut in a patchwork of stitching, leather, mesh and suede, while a new Butteri western boot is crafted in hand-painted, patinated Venezia leather.

The Rapiecé Reprisé story marks the first instalment in the Berluti Editions line – a stand-alone limited-edition proposal.

Originally created by Olga Berluti in 2005, the collection is defined by the combination of patinated and Scritto leathers, patched together with hand-stitching and painting. Slippers, loafers, boots and more are available with or without stitching, encouraging the wearer to playfully mix and match.

For autumn-winter 2024, Berluti engages with the soft fabric of cashmere, shearling and leather to dress the style of a modern and dynamic man, without forgetting its timeless suede blazer, appearing in Paris in a moss green.

Through woollen parkas, gilets, and jackets finished with leather intricacies, Berluti seamlessly fuses heritage and durability throughout.

by Madeleine Ringer

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