ARRIVING at Penha Longa Resort means winding through the dense, emerald folds of the Sintra-Cascais National Park. The hotel appears as a flash of pale stone, contrasted amongst the greens of pines and endless golf courses feels like I’ve been transported into another world.
The 14th-century monastery appears almost suddenly. Arches, cloisters, and bell towers rising from manicured lawns, a scene as serene now as it must have been when monks first settled here in 1355. Today, 16th-century stone floors, and golden church altar stand alongside elegant lounges and terraces, the old and the new woven seamlessly together. After seeing the space turn into a wedding venue for the weekend, I’ll be adding Penha Longa to my destination wedding list.
Penha Longa | © Matthew Shaw
Monastery © Matthew Shaw
My suite, part of the hotels lighter and brighter renovation, carried that same balance of heritage and modern comfort. A palette of soft green, ocean blue and earthy brown echoed the landscape beyond my terrace. The furnishings were light and contemporary, oversized king bed, spacious living area and a marbled bathroom make up my spacious suite.
Junior Suite | © Matthew Shaw
It’s easy to make a case for Penha Longa as a gastronomic destination. Seven restaurants cover a spectrum from poolside snacks to Michelin-starred artistry. The most memorable is dinner at Midori, Portugal’s only Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant. The name means green, and here it nods to the surrounding park.
Dishes at Midori
Presented with the Kiri menu, we enjoy a procession of plates alongside a view of the stunning Sintra Mountains. The menu offers a wide variety of dishes, each course felt like a small celebration, with an infused taste of Portuguese and Japanese flavours.
Starting with Hassun, a selection of playful bite-sized appetisers. Then Omiotsuke, a Portuguese stew reimagined as miso-shiro, was deeply comforting, and sushi was a highlight: striped prawn nigiri, turbot brushed with fig tree leaf, and buttery chutoro tuna. Dessert, Dezato, brought sakura, almond and cherry together in a sweet, airy finale.
Another evening, I settled into LAB by Sergi Arola, where we journey with a ceramic cockerel taking us on an edible tour of the country, Portuguese tapas is served at every stop on the map carved table. The tasting menu that follows brought refinement and surprised with every course.
Creme de Amêijoa, caviar balsâmico e tempura de ostra
Days have a way of stretching at Penha Longa. Golfers moved between the 18-holes on the Atlantic Championship Course, while the smaller Monastery Course offered a gentler pace for those new to the game. The Penha Longa Spa & Wellness became my early retreat, waking up with morning yoga in the zen-inspired garden before heading in for my personalised massage, where my masseuse Monique knew exactly how to release all the tension I had.
Outdoor Family Pool © Matthew Shaw
If exploring local towns is part of your travel ritual, Cascais is well worth the short drive from the hotel. Often referred to as the Portuguese Riviera, this charming coastal town draws both visitors and locals with its relaxed elegance.
A guided tour with Visit Cascais reveals the bay from the water and the cobbled streets on foot, each turn revealing a layer of the town’s history. Our walk led us to the lively farmers’ market, where stalls brimmed with handmade crafts, clothing, and an abundance of fresh local produce. From there, we headed west to Boca do Inferno and Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, to take in sweeping views of rugged cliffs and the Atlantic horizon before returning to the hotel.
Cascais
Penha Longa isn’t simply a place to stay — it’s a place to inhabit. Whether you come for the golf, the gastronomy, the spa, or simply to let the rhythm of the park set your pace, it leaves you with the rare sense of having lived inside a story, one still being written after more than six centuries.
by Vivian Hui
Nightly rates start from €360 a Deluxe Room at Penha Longa.
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