UPON entering the Maison de L’UNESCO, the location for Loewe‘s AW18 runway at PFW, an overwhelming sense of comfort washed over. Plush carpeting and timber-framed fireplaces created the illusion of a living room, and with Wuthering Heights or one of the other five selected novels awaiting on the seats, it seemed tempting to cosy up and get your head in a book. But our lethargic mood soon changes as the first look made its debut.
Soft tailoring and feminine textures contribute to the collections general aesthetic, with an abundance of furs and piped suits becoming a familiar sight by the finale. Creative director Jonathan Anderson aimed to create an air of relaxation with unclipped bras and slouching jumpers reflecting the easy ambience. However, this juxtaposed the structured leather garments and accessories. Models are elongated through floor-length hems and loose dress cuts, with trailing straps extending the silhouettes further.
Colours stay muted throughout the collection’s entirety, with a neutral palette of browns, blacks and off-whites. Sophistication, through mature silhouettes and colours, is met with a youthful edge as revealing garments wrapped in rainbow yarn brings a youthful aesthetic, amplified further by recurring accents of blue and teal.
by Todd Burns