TITLED “I Loved you From the Start,” Daniel W. Fletcher’s latest collection promises ethereal romanticism combined with centuries-old craftsmanship, exemplifying world renowned British tailoring.
The collections marks the collaboration of two British fashion buzzwords, both old and new. For autumn-winter 2023, Fletcher took his designs to the notoriously technical Saville Row in the heart of Mayfair, to work alongside long-enamoured tailors, Huntsman.
The 174-year old tailoring house helped to create a selection of nine bespoke suits, which will be made to order upon the collection’s release, as well as 12 ready-to-wear styles that found their inspiration in both respective house’s archives. Designs also boast the basting stitch, highlighting the precision of crafting a Saville Row suit: “To work with Huntsman in such a way that has been so much about detail and craft is a real honour. I know that being able to observe and take note of the way that Campbell and the team on Savile Row work will inform how I go on to design for the rest of my career,” mentions Fletcher.
The collection continually plays on contrasts, with more formal silhouettes bouncing off of relaxed styles that aim to appease a varied audience with a flare for sophistication and impeccable production. Reinvented classics such as sartorial overcoats and structured shirts appear next to organza blouses and column dresses, which inject an admirable sense of romanticism that nods to the name of the collection.
This idea is enhanced with the selection of fabrics. Fluid silks caress starchy cotton and wool creations, and lighter textures are layered with shearling jackets and leather gloves, all elements that evoke an underlying sensuality.
The collection is a sure continuation of Fletcher’s dedication to structured beauty. Yet again we see a thoughtful and thorough array of garments that distinguish his polished aesthetic, re-making old sensibilities accessible for a modern customer.
by Ben Sanderson