“Jeans represent democracy in fashion,” proclaimed the original tour de force of European tailoring Giorgio Armani, and at Dior Homme on Saturday, for Kris Van Assche, the majority ruled, with a collection that, albeit cunningly, tested conventions by merging street-wear with the intrinsic, timelessly Dior elegance of the legendary brand.
Indeed, ambitious cutting-edge experiments with fabrics were the integral ingredients in Paris for the house, next to the on point precision leather pinstripes of the acute suits, myriads of humble polka-dots, liberal embroidery and bold, yet restrained patterns fuelled by a contemporary air, jean fabric emerged, becoming emblematic of youthful suavity.
From the re-appropriation of jean, courtesy of rebels without a cause of the 1950s to the jet-set designer jeans of the 70s, endorsed by glittering names ranging from Vanderbilt to Von Furstenberg, Van Assche has highlighted the versatility of jean for the 21st century, in a reflective celebration of utility-wear, of course with a glimmer of domineering full-length furs included for good measure, drawing on this seasons penchant for tactility. A palette of trademark Dior minimalist hues reigned, with no-nonsense slate giving way to the denim blue and dark, ruminating khaki shades.
These colourings were set against the slight quirk of a lily good-luck charm insignia, embroidered on pockets, and drawing on the superstitious proclivities of the iconic chieftain himself, Christian Dior. For l’homme Dior this season, the dynamic lightening speed of the show evoked the ever-evolving spirit of the fabled house, a sure precursor to a prosperous 2014.
Watch the show here.
by Liam Feltham