MARCHING to the beat of abstract club music, the models walking for Fyodor Golan’s AW18 collection dodged around metallic, oversized spheres and planets wearing retro tracksuits constructed in space age fabrics. A multitude of rainbow colours contributed to half of the collection, whilst much remained in tones of white, grey and silver. Jean Baldessari, an American concept artist, helped inspire the placement of colours throughout the collection, as colour blocking clashing with bold print could be synonymous with paintings of his.
Aviation shaped the aesthetic of the collection, with silk and satin dresses billowing as models walk, designed to simulate the motion of flight. Oversized silhouettes of skirts cinched at the hem by drawstrings resemble deflating hot air balloons, amplified by the rainbow stripes that are heavily featured. Vintage sportswear influences much of the collection, with elastic lace up tops and bomber jackets allowing the collection to touch on multiple trends that are popular the season. However contemporary garment shapes and technical fabrics modernised the outfits.
It was no secret that there had been collaboration between Fyodor Golan and pop-culture giants MTV, as their brand logo was splashed over various garments. Portrayed on patches, as prints and incorporated into construction through crochet, the MTV logo works in coalition with the sportswear aesthetic to create a sense of nostalgia. The show concluded with an ssymetric track jacket and pleated, panelled trousers, finished with the MTV logo in rainbow tones.
by Todd Burns