LFW AW24: Ancuta Sarca

ANCUTA Sarca took airport outfits to a new level at her AW24 show, inside the historic Old Selfridges Hotel, where models lounged on airport seats clad head-to-toe in the Romanian designer’s latest creations.

Blue carpet, artificial lighting, and a hundred phones flashing as guests photographed the collection heightened the unsettling atmosphere Sarca had been inspired to create, bringing the label’s aesthetic into a new, darker twist for autumn-winter 2024.

Dark navy and black juxtaposed looks of burning red and soft browns as Sarca places the odd and yet commonplace combination of airport style into the limelight.

Patent leather jackets and matching knee-length shorts are completed with crisp shirts and stockings, while deadstock teddy fleeces redefine comfort-dressing in their pairing of sunglasses, ties, and contrast stitching.

Dedicated to a circular design framework and reducing fabric waste, Sarca offers innovative footwear in bold visions of red and blue sandals, whose 3D printed wedge soles were crafted from a fusion of durable nylons and flexible TPU.

Stemming from a collaboration with HILOS, Ancuta Sarca’s forward-thinking, eco-conscious craftsmanship cannot be ignored.

Deadstock leathers and faux furs were shown off in the form of statement knee-high boots, while surplus fabric from past seasons were born again into kitten heels and slouchy boots.

Thinking beyond the usual materials, Sarca reconstructs recycled car seat leathers into boots embodying the label’s recognisable silhouettes, pushing repurposing fabric to a whole new level.

The collection debuts the Hoodie Bag, a sturdy foam construction in a resilient 3D form, accented with deadstock velour and including drawstring elements reminiscent of a tracksuit. Complimented by a deadstock tracksuit reimagined as an elegant evening dress, Sarca’s AW24 stands as a testament to her explorative balancing of sportswear and luxury, feminine and masculine, and old and new.

by Madeleine Ringer

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