DAVID Koma knows how to set a celebratory tone for SS19. This afternoon, the Georgian designer unveiled his latest collection during London Fashion Week, composed through countless injections of black and constant glamour. The influence? A cinematic universe. This was Koma’s creation of a fierce sartorial atmosphere, and much like its foregrounding inspiration, its revelation was an impressive reeling roll.
Take the structures – cinematic and eccentric alike. That point was proven from the offset of the show as models stormed the runway in militant, khaki hues atop much black. Mini dresses were given a shapely silhouette upgrade, emitting levels of a dark, modern flamenco dance. This season, Koma’s vision was informed by Pedro Almodóvar: the Spanish film master heavily associated with La Movida Madrilene – Spain’s cultural renaissance. And much like his acclaimed atmospheric frames, Koma’s collection was a burst of sculptural fluidity.
Following on from the opening flourished females – khaki clad – Koma’s slender structures reigned on. Trousers took a stance, inspired by the masculine sensuality of Romani flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, who took a strict, streamlined approach to the stylish sport. As for colour, looks were kept to a block palette – further enhanced through injections of purple and white. Saturday night fever alert! Those disco details were infused to just the right amount through Koma’s decoration. This season’s choice: running chain threads. Greetings to glamour!
Roma opted to create floor-length gowns (a first occasion) to conclude the collection, finishing them with a super rich surface decoration. The effect – a fashioned bow for a collection designed for dancing. All that was left to ask Koma: when are you holding the accompanying flamenco class? We’ll be the first to sign up.
by Faye Fearon