A NEW wave of Asian designers is taking part in London Fashion Week this year among the many talented is the Chinese born and Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion graduate, Xuzhi Chen with his brand Xu Zhi. After a well-celebrated debut at last season’s London Fashion Week. The emerging designer birthed a head-turning Spring/Summer collection on Friday, a tribute to the American poet Emily Dickinson.
The innovative artist constructs a majestic two-part contrasting collection. One part, is a door into the world of The Great Gatsby, consisting of colourful glam with elegantly bold designs in pink, blue and yellow. The other part an ode to Dickinson’s white dress, with an all wholly white ensemble, models capped in eye-blinding white pieces embellished in Swarovski crystals.
Incorporating sunset inspired looks and white goddess aesthetics, the brand mirrors the themes of nature, dominance and religion often explored in Dickinson poetry. Ultimately it’s the stained glasses and gothic architecture that ties in the narrative of mystery surrounding the poetess.
Fringe dresses, shredded satin, loose fits and tassel suits, Xu Zhi compiled a compilation awakening the era of luxury and femininity of the 1920s. Yet with an adaption of khaki, bomber jackets and co-ords, the collection remains a contemporary and progressive selection.
Not too long ago the London based designer was completing internships at J.W. Anderson and Craig Green and is now quickly rising to fame since a growing retail success across European and Asian markets. The designer is increasingly becoming acknowledged for his dedication to his craftsmanship and deconstruction of materials.
Despite the lack of patterns and prints, Xu Zhi still creates a stand out collection with striking textures and fabrics, capturing the power in simplicity a true reflection of Dickinson’s writing.
by Melissa Kasule