FYODOR GOLAN’S SS20 collection opened with a flurry of inspirations; the show, in the underground tunnels of Somerset House, referenced Marie Antoinette, Good Luck Trolls, Mozart and pansexuality – all at the same time. Entitled Pantastic, designers and founders of the brand, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman wanted the idea of contrast to be the underlying theme of the show. They succeeded – no two looks were the same, yet the collection’s contradictory styles didn’t distract from the pieces – but further enhanced the unique individuality and playfulness of each look
An almost aggressive approach was taken to construction of the clothing itself– hems are raw, jackets are patch-worked together by sewn strips of fabric, lace clashes with sports shorts and heavy metal tees. Platform heels, which all the models wore, were wrapped with a series of multi-colour belts and buckles, their fabrics upcycled from previous seasons and production waste. Fabrics themselves are not what they seem – the designers designers applied traditional denim techniques to silk satins and tulles to create a reinterpretation of materials and to delve deeper into the world of the artificial.
Fantasy and reality are blended as Fyodor Golan use the theme of bed to re-imagine a psychedelic and unisexual aesthetic, pyjamas feature inky tie-dye prints while pillows are physically harnessed to the models, reminding the audience of the dreamworld that this collection succeeds in encapsulating.
by Mirabella Shahidullah