PAUL SURRIDGE debuted his first AW collection at MFW since being appointed creative director of Roberto Cavalli in 2017 and he didn’t disappoint. Similar to his first collection, the AW18 show opened with animal print. However, the pieces were more muted than the more graphic SS18 prints. Snake, leopard, zebra, crocodile and cheetah were all incorporated in menswear and womenswear pieces. Not only in print, but in textured leather trousers and trench coats. Fur detailing was seen throughout.
The silhouettes ranged from pieces that draped away from the body, but were cinched in at the waist to 1920’s style flapper dresses with fringing. Surridge’s inclusion of laser cut-outs accentuated the girls’ bodies. Waists were also highlighted through the gathering of lightweight fabric. Handkerchief hems were strategically placed to emphasised the looseness of the pieces.
The models’ hair was slicked back, giving a wet-look appearance. This aquatic theme was evident through Surridge’s choices of colour, embellished denim, and translucent fabric, all of which would be expected in the wardrobe of a resident of Atlantis.
The garments had multiple accessories matching the animal print aesthetic including handbags in snake-skin textured leather and backpacks with tails attached.
Closing the show, Bella Hadid walked in a red crocodile leather trench coat and a matching satin midi-dress. She led an epic finale to the accompaniment of INXS’ Never Tear Us Apart.
by Tom Halford