AT THE Zegna autumn-winter 2024 show, Alessandro Sartori – creative director of Zegna – showcased the versatility and adaptability of cashmere.
Creating an open system of pieces that can be layered into endless combinations, the creative director opted to categorise the latest seasonal offering into four distinct sections: top, bottoms, underpinning and accessories.
Placing an emphasis on reshaping traditional silhouettes, the new collection underlines the brand’s dedication to precious materials. Sending a parade of models down the runway in a selection of cashmere looks, Zegna’s commitment to sustainable practices becomes immediately apparent. Cashmere is renowned for its traceability and, as a result, the fibre is praised by many for its timeless allure.
Speaking on its fabrication, Alessandro Sartori said: “As both a physical place and a mindset, Oasi Zegna, the centre of our world, is a veritable lab: a place in which we can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms, devise forward-looking clothing solutions suited for the now.
Here, we experiment with the most exquisite natural fibres and dyes, while decoding functions and recoding lines to create an open system of elements that frees personal interpretation. We do so in a constant lookout for beauty and excellence with a responsible commitment towards the environment, following a wholesome idea of fashion as transformation: of fabrics, colours, silhouettes”.
As a result, the collection’s themes of transformation and metamorphosis easily come forward. With many of the garments being designed to be multi-purpose, the clothes blend and also intertwine to provide an array of interesting styling options.
For example, coats exhibit new enveloping volumes, while blazers appear double-collared alongside collarless anoraks. Similarly, boxy jackets are fitted with careful pockets to increase functionality and add utilitarian elements to the entire ensemble of looks.
Utilising a colour palette of warm neutral tones, muted pinks and the occasional icy blue, the looks are made to effortlessly combine, regardless of hue.
Calling upon a range of different textures, including multi-melange/Shetland cashmere, pure cashmere beaver, washed panno, intarsia panno, 3D workwear panno, cashmere-backed plongè leather, pure cashmere terry and raw denim, the pieces can be elevated or paired back depending on the occasion.
As an additional surprise, the show’s soundtrack was composed by British artist James Blake. Having been a friend of the house for some time, Blake worked alongside Sartori to create a harmonious, symbiotic flow which matched the collection’s creativity and environment.
Constructed with the future in mind, the AW24 offering exemplifies Zegna’s impeccable craftsmanship and sophisticated designs.
by Sophie Richardson