MFW SS19: Moschino

ACROSS a frantic schedule of back-to-back fashion shows from New York to London to Milan, it’s possible one can become overwhelmed with sartorial codes for the spring and summer seasons. Fortunately, Jeremy Scott continues to remind us of fashion’s creative capabilities – quite literally. His latest masterpiece for Moschino? An artistic outburst – with a scatter of sketches emblazoned across suits, skirts, dresses and accessories. And as per Scott, plenty of playful gowns to remind viewers of the Italian house’s theatricality. So let’s talk about those show stoppers!

The set was ironically simple – a studio backdrop and a white runway which read like a paper reel. One that kept turning, to be noted, as looks were unveiled. They were centred around eighties-style details and tailoring: tiny waists, over-structured shoulders, grand collars and brilliant bows. Making a mark? As far as print was concerned, that point was clear. And it was additionally to be felt through the accessories. Dramatic M-plated jewellery was styled on each model, from oversized earrings to clunky, layered necklaces. Scott was serving design realness – through garment construction, decoration and a magic marker.

Three cheers for colour? The painter’s palette nodded, as garments were finished with squiggles in almost every bold hue: pink, orange, yellow, blue, green, red. So in short: a rainbow revelation. Scott’s Moschino collections always feel fictional in that sense, sending you to a land of optimism (specifically: one of an eighties-theme this season). And in keeping with the brand’s fun iconography, Scott set out on debuting logo mania looks, too. Forms were found through sweatshirts, swimsuits, and mini-dresses  – many still sealed with a sketch.

Gowns of total glamour concluded the collection. Going for gold, a shimmering needle dress threaded itself to the surreal stance that Scott was taking for SS19. Standing out aside Gigi Hadid’s puffball wedding dress which conclude the show, a satin scissor gown with a leg split to evidence the object’s purpose. Playful precision! And it led to us thinking: is Scott quite literally striving to be at the cutting-edge of fashion? From SS19 sights, it looks like such. And it’s unlikely he’s stopping those statements any time soon. Keep sketching, Scott.

by Faye Fearon

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