MILAN, Italy — Matteo Tamburini’s ambition is nothing less than cooling off the entire fashion system, paying tribute to the slow processes of artisanal craft-making that have long shaped the brand through the decades.
A continuous exploration of permanently available classics makes up the backbone of his Spring/ Summer 2026 outing for Tod’s: perforations, gomminos, textured trenches and lightweight stripes. These don’t offer much newness, but they have a commercial appeal poised to make them best sellers. The trend-driven portion appears in outerwear, with inserts revealing sartorial details.
Elsewhere, such pieces might be cut for cohesion. Not here. Bringing a timeless, charming collection into the daily frantic roundelay that the rest of the world cycles through frees Tamburini to indulge in as many iterations of his pieces as he likes: signature styles are available for all occasions, with a pleasing softness running through the lineup.
It’s no surprise that Tod’s does leather well: the Gommino is reimagined for Summer, offered both in its classic version and as an open-toe design decked with perforations that recall its iconic pattern. The loafers stand out with rich multicoloured leather threading, all done by hand.
Overall, the collection carried a seductively poised sex appeal, ensuring strong commercial appeal. Attention was paid to the accessories, from small-sized bags to carry-on pouches. And there were fine options also in technical jackets: investment pieces that Tamburini’s woman will want to pair with the slew of (not-so) basics, knits, and cottons churned out each season.
It goes to show that even when creative directors attempt to subtly change the system’s fixtures, some things will always stay the same. In the end, one has to dress for the life they want—and the brand offered plenty of that.
by Chidozie Obasi