MFWM SS25: Moschino

Titled ‘Lost and Found’, the label’s SS25 show explored a narrative of opposites—where practicality and traditionalism reigned supreme.

THE Moschino aesthetic has stayed through to its course for decades. But now that a downtown vagabond look has cycled back into fashion, Adrian Appiolaza’s new direction has shifted up a gear from reliably cool to unexpectedly relevant. 

You could see it in the form of a deconstructed blazer—slouchy and angular in equal measure—as well as the extra large cotton patchwork overalls and extra-wide asymmetrical shirts. If the collection lent itself to mixing and unmatching timeless classics (as seen across Pitti’s recent shows), the layering was not always as advanced as it seemed; an embellished jacket worn over a skin-tight cardigan, and a roomy beige sweatshirt and cocktail skirt were conjoined as one. 

In general, the offering presented as less playful than the house’s signature collections, which may be owing to the lived-up nature of the textiles or, more likely, a broadening out beyond tongue-in-cheek experimentations; never underestimate the appeal of a wardrobe essential (cue: a white shirt, artfully differentiated by fabric iterations).

And then there were the playful functional touches inspired by an urban escape from the big city life. “My idea for Moschino recalls that of a trip, and I strongly believe that moving forward I want my practice to feel like a natural narrative,” Adrian Appiolaza detailed in a post-show interview, referencing the survival jacket. 

As a versatile staple, it’ll do well in stores, especially when longtime customers come looking for something besides another vibrant look or baggy topper. The oversized coat felt it could easily end up the crowd-pleasers, with trans-seasonal dressing being a mainstay among this season’s pool of trends. 

“This season, the exploration began from the archives where I took a suit from Franco and I studied its opposites; particularly the extremes of a worker’s life—the stress of the city and the idea of paradise, which made me study the codes of the house with a fresh view.” 

Perhaps the freshest, though, were the outerwear patched with all-over patterns, which came in check and neutral tones from their usual vibrant palette. These are the type of practically cosy transition pieces that do justice to Summer. 

For something considerably lighter—and greatly shown here—Appiolaza orchestrated a lineup cooler and more severe than previous outings. In broader terms, though, it resulted in a more polished product.

Meanwhile, his take on volume play brought forth a great variety of shapes with its reimagined “freeing” sensibility, so the wider knits (styled billowingly for a functional effect) and baggy denim pants filled any gaps in what we perceive as feminine: “Because today, of course, it’s all so fluid,” concluded Appiolaza.

by Chidozie Obasi

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