NYFW AW23: Puppets and Puppets

PUPPETS and Puppets, the brainchild of founder and creative director Carly Mark, revealed its autumn-winter 2023 collection at New York Fashion Week, drawing inspiration from old-world medical gore. 

Looking for references from the film is one of the creative processes prevalent to Mark. For this release, she references the director of the psychological thriller film Dead Ringers, David Cronenberg, a storyline where Jeremy Irons plays twin doctors, as they increasingly derange throughout the course of the film.

The collection featured a juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements, with tailored wool suiting paired with sequinned shift dresses and satin pants, all embellished with flocked florals, snakeskin, and faux fur. 

The Puppets bag was presented in a new light, featuring floral and insect motifs, while the new hobo bag showcased handles shaped like bananas and telephones. Mark’s fascination with corsetry and hoop skirts was evident in the collection, but with a quirky and carefully-considered twist for AW23. 

The runway also featured avant-garde dresses printed with the likeness of a gory medical painting and blood-red sequinned dresses mirroring the horror of the aforementioned film. Nevertheless, a standout piece was the sequin bra adorned with egg omelettes covering the nipple, adding a more youthful, playful touch to the collection. 

by Zlata Kryudor