RELIABLE and no-nonsense, 3.1 Phillip Lim gives us a clean and sturdy collection “in a moment when the world too often feels chaotic”. Using Marie Kondo’s decluttering ways as inspiration, Lim created an inspired collection with the resolve to “spark joy” – and one that he undeniably achieved.
Opening the show was a classic combination of a full-skirted dress with a trench coat on top: sleek, elegant and timeless. The palette of slate greys, navy, black and optic white with the occasional earth tone and dark seafoam conspired to create a collection made for the working city girl.
Lim’s inspiration for this collection came from Marie Kondo, as previously mentioned, but also Patagonia’s co-founder and environmentalist, Yvon Chouinard. With a new brand commitment to sustainability, the designer has committed himself eliminating the usage and production of furs and exotic skins starting this season, opting instead to use natural fibres, recycled materials and by-products of the meat industry (leather and shearling). Lim sought to create a collection “with more intention and purpose”, in doing small things, they could “add up to an adjusted culture” and we are ever so supportive of a new narrative and positive motive in the fashion industry.
Chic and streamlined, the collection made us reminiscent of the old Celine collections. The attention to practicality without compromising on style can be seen through the playfulness of the structures and silhouettes; layering belt-cinched jackets and cocoon coats over voluminous skirts and wide-leg trousers, creating the ultimate variety of volume and proportions.
Joining other designers, Lim joined the emerging leather trend by partnering a leather jacket under his classic sleeveless trench, matching a split-sleeve leather shirt with a zebra-print midi skirt and showcasing full-leather ensembles compromised of buttery trousers and a corseted blouse. Fluid dresses and off-shoulder assemblages were key in his nocturnal options. Elevating the outfits were oversized carryalls tucked under one arm, cinched booties, double strap heels and one pair of rather amazing furry flats.
3.1 Phillip Lim showed us how cosmopolitan chic is really done this New York Fashion Week.
by Robyn Ngan