Tisci turned to the usual sporty tailoring this season, but if you just squint you might catch a glimpse of something a little different. A sense of divergence that is, for there was a faint sense of a SS15 Ricardo redux, in which the creative designer masterfully relayed some of his early design codes with magisterial confidence.
While he may have been looking backwards, we got all the good stuff we’ve come to expect from the universally praised auteur of the atelier, magnetically fierce masculinity, check, sub-cultural salutes, check, and austere hues, check. Next to the street tough bluster there was a few soft touches, a floral print that Tisci is most inclined to working with appeared on many pieces, on first impressions appearing almost like a harsh acid splash bleach effect, and that’s as soft as it gets.
It was then back to the sheer fabrics that half concealed rippling muscles, exposed brazenly with sleeveless jackets, and lots and lots of layering, upping the ante with chunky zips and utility pocket upon utility pocket. The hordes of Tisci zealots won’t be disappointed this season because primarily nothing is out of the ordinary. The ordinary is that we are now living in the fashion age of the superstar creative director, Tisci and his unmitigated talent not only for the cloth but for tapping into this periodicity sums it up, and his stomping ground is Givenchy, remember that old house?
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com