Hermès AW15 outing this season didn’t just mean another line-up of infinitely chic garments it meant a new creative director, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, some more diverse sartorial ideas and the reeling in of time-honoured heritage for the French native. Her perfect fit nationality gave the designer a sensitivity to respecting the codes of the house and in creating smart leather looks for the most discerning of luxury customers.
The early sight of leather dungarees laid down that point powerfully and onwards easy jackets with sleek wonderfully opulent fastenings saw Vanhee-Cybulski slip into her new role smoothly. The strong scarlet hues that accompanied all the sober monochromes were positively aglow with the new feminine spirit at the house, sometimes resigned to a simple stripe on a caped ensemble and much louder in other dressy instances. The young designer didn’t shy away from other shiny jewel tones either, keeping them reserved but lavishing them upon mink jumpers, sweater-dresses and sometimes just a scarf.
More practical leather daywear creations in lustful oxblood carried the show through well, yet one couldn’t help but think that Vanhee-Cybulski may grow stronger over time if she can condense a single motif a spread it across one entire collection. This was an impeccably strong start however and has certainly marked a milestone new turn in the progression of one of France’s leading and most alluring luxury juggernauts.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com