THE SAHARA didn’t seem too far away as the first look from Jacquemus’ AW18 collection walked the runway, marking the beginning of Paris Fashion Week. But aside from all the excitement of his collection debut, we were desperate to finally have some answers following Jacquemus’ copious use of #NewJob in his recent Instagram captions.
The collection itself took inspiration from the souks of Marrakech. Described by many as an assault on the senses, the labyrinth-like souks are an acumination of rich colours, exotic textures and unusual sights. Jacquemus reflected the atmosphere of the souks through advanced pattern-cutting techniques and luxurious materials, with touches of traditional Moroccan design for authenticity. Minimalism is a key aesthetic throughout the collection, with expert draping and simplistic silhouettes adding to the overall sophistication.
Colour blocking also excels the elegance of the collection, with earth tones of beige and greens being representational of Moroccan landscape. Known as the Red City, Jacquemus uses rich hues of orange and red to mirror Marrakech’s architecture. Minimal use of printed silks adds a luxurious aspect, amplified further by oversized sunhats and extravagant jewellery.
Leather and fringe are respectful of Morocco’s traditional handicrafts, as are the stylised kaftans and harem-like silhouettes. This juxtaposes the Parisian qualities of dramatic tailoring. As Simon Porte Jacquemus stepped out for his lap of honour – and we snapped back from our Moroccan fantasies – we finally understood the meaning of #NewJob, as it came clear that Jacquemus would be launching a new Menswear range in the near future.
by Todd Burns