STAGED IN Paris’ Museum of the Modern Arts (Musée d’art modern de la Ville de Paris), Akris’ AW20 was one of the most artistic and art-abundant shows at the Paris Fashion Week. Being the only Swiss fashion house showing in Paris, securing such a venue overlooking the Eiffel Tower is truly impressive – yet what was even more impressive was the coordination between the modernist artwork displayed around the venue and the looks that Akris’ creative director Albert Kriemler showcased.
Kriemler has always been an exceptional art enthusiast, regularly drawing inspiration from French artists and architects, such as Robert Mallet-Stevens, Pierre Chareau and Robert and Sonia Delaunay. In this collection Kriemler subtly incorporated elements of Cubism and Art Deco, with the most prominent featuring detail being geometric pattern incorporated into skirts, blazers and coats.
Most of the brands this season have lavishly incorporated elements of nostalgia for the past (notably, Miu Miu and Givenchy) and so did Akris, which went all the way back to the 1930s and 1940s.
Deciding to cast off the clichés and to view the collection through a feminist lens instead, Kriemler blended together female and male silhouettes (another influence from Robert Mallet-Stevens) in an empowering collection of double-breasted cashmere wrap coats, jumpsuit and jacket ensembles, all complemented by the very 1930s flat caps. Showcasing Akris’ best handcraft technique, AW20 looks also demonstrated an impeccable manufacturing of wool bouclé tweed, cashmeres and cottons.
Towards the end of the show, Akris decided to bring a little bit of softness into the otherwise “silent cinema” collection by referencing the art deco movement with the help of cocktail dresses, velvet suits, sheer and silk fabrics.
Akris’ AW20 collection at the Paris Fashion Week became a much-needed artistic break from the excessive grandeur and the politicisation of most of the other shows. Blending together 20th century art and fashion and showcasing the masterful Swiss craftsmanship that Akris and its founding city of St Gallen are known for, Akris’ AW20 pieces have become ones of the very few practical and actually wearable pieces this season.
by Lexi Fadina