AS THE fashion crowd patiently waits for the new chapter of Chanel to be unveiled later this year following the appointment of Matthieu Blazy, the in-house team continues to showcase the core motifs with their carefully considered collections.
For autumn-winter 2025, it was all about perspective at the French Maison. Playing around with size, length and proportion, there was an element of entering Wonderland when it came to this season. Tweed mini jackets were paired with super long trousers, knitted jumpers turned into baggy dresses, and bags fluctuated between borderline weekenders to delightful evening clutches that hang by a finger.
Honing in on signatures synonymous with Chanel – the bow, the ribbon, the pearl and the Camellia flower – are manipulated throughout the collection. Thoughtfully placed on collars and cuffs, embroidered across jackets, neatly added to the top of boots, and cut-outs of dresses and sweaters, the bow is heavily referenced from start to finish. The ribbon on the other hand is discovered across prints seen in a triptych of dresses for those whose AW season is likely not spent in the cooler temperatures of the West.
Although the use of these symbols at times seems a bit juvenile, the singular pearl acting as a heel, the superbly oversized cross-the-body pearl bag and the oodles of undulating necklaces mixed with rhinestones swinging from the necks of the models bring a contemporary touch to this vintage keepsake element.
But it is the layering in this collection that packs the biggest punch. Three-piece tweed offerings that contain a micro-jacket, wrap skirt, trousers, hat and gloves together is a maximalist’s idea of the perfect outfit. Suits in champagne or black-and-white tweed are set off with a flouncy cape in tulle to not only play with texture but add considerable movement. And, oversized scarves add a rare casual feel to matching woollen dresses.
Despite this collection sticking so closely to the guidelines of the French Maison, it felt like it lacked some more thought-provoking takes on what we are so familiar with. There were no show-stopping moments that caused a gasp, no red carpet-worthy dresses that would have stylists fighting for exclusivity, or even viral moments to add some buzz to an already saturated day of shows.
However, with everything set to evolve next season, maybe the idea was to remind us of the foundation of Chanel. Or maybe that was wishful thinking, I don’t know but I am now more excited about Blazy’s debut in October.
by Imogen Clark