JUNYA Watanabe has always had a way with fabrics. Through his deft hand and artistic vision, even the simplest and plainest of fabrics are transformed something glamorous and sophisticated. This season has been no exception to that, as we witness him cleverly finesse everyday materials into runway-ready couture.
The collection is both punk and high society, with a steady slew of patchwork denim fishtail gowns, voluminous 50s silhouettes, and band tee and tulle skirt combos gracing the runway. In his vision of summer, dressy and casual are brought together as denim, cotton, tulle and satin coalesce.
Denim is spliced and sewed together to form A-line, cinch-waist skirts that are made fuller with tulle under-layers (as women would have done back in the 1950s). Silk jacquard is left frayed, worn over yet another volumizing underskirt but kept cool and casual with a cotton t-shirt and white lace-up sneakers. Tan suspenders are cut vertically down in the middle and joined together with a pleated, satin sweetheart dress, similarly split down the middle. The collection is every bit as edgy as it is romantic, appealing far and wide to the hearts of both Japanese harajuku and British punk girls alike.
Deconstruction and reconstruction has always been part of the brand DNA, and this season is a continued testament at just how adept Junya Watanabe is at that.
by Kay Leong