TAKING a trip to the dark side – quite literally – Saint Laurent explores all things matrix and monochrome in their autumn-winter menswear 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
With the dreaded cold weather of this winter already upon us, Saint Laurent has taken notes as they showcase a range of avant-garde high-neck sweaters in what appears to be a current sought-after thick-knit material. Protecting not only most of the face from harsh weather interferers but the knees as well, as gender barriers are blurred by these dress-like creations.
Excited to see the return of oversized trench coats, paired perfectly with blackout shades, and strong structural lines, creating a dynamic contrast between these and the softer knitwear designs within the collection.
Another stand-out feature is the return of the cagoule. We saw these frequently towards the end of 2022 after the trend of balaclavas started to die down, but we sense a revival of this early noughties forgotten icon throughout 2023. Debuting in a mix of satin and knit styles, it wouldn’t be silly to assume these to evolve into the perfect cold-weather accessory whatever the occasion.
Flamboyant necklines are what Anthony Vaccarello does best at Saint Laurent, and this showcase is no exception. Strong, angular bows are detailed around a variety of looks, like an elevated invention of a classic tie but in a more modern manner.
Connected to fresh, long-sleeved shirts, and even intriguing chiffon versions, Vaccarello’s love for creating pieces for the nighttime echoes the later months of the year as party and awards season become the glittering runway for Saint Laurent, delivering a room-stopping entrance.
A real art-inspired collection has been received here by Vaccarello, once again inspiring that fluid dialogue between the house’s womenswear and menswear ranges. Japanese architect Tadao Ando presents a radical structure-within-a-structure, a natural setting for the evening’s intimate showcase, as a gleaming cylinder is at the centre of the runway, signifying hints of perfection and purity, a heavy contrast from AW23’s dark palette.
A playful edge is mastered by the proportions and ideas of wrapping up the body. The further development of hooded silhouettes from the most recent Saint Laurent women’s collection into these masculine cagoules is an awe-worthy evolution and seamless transfusion into the his and hers aesthetic for the Saint Laurent couple.
by Alicia Tomkinson