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PFWM AW26: IM Men


IM Men’s Autumn/ Winter 2026 collection unfolded with a quiet authority that felt both deeply considered and gently radical. Presented in a restrained, almost monastic setting, the show resisted the noise of the season choosing instead to focus on what has always defined Issey Miyake’s legacy: the intelligence of fabric and the poetry of movement.

Titled Formless Form, the collection explored how garments emerge not from rigid structure but from interaction, focusing on the relationship between cloth and wearer. Silhouettes were fluid and robe-like, hovering between two and three dimensions. Long coats, tunics, and wrap trousers moved with an ease that felt deliberate rather than relaxed. The effect was sculptural yet human, architectural without stiffness.

Fabric innovation remained the quiet hero. Textiles appeared almost weightless, yet capable of holding shape through pleating, folding, and tension. As models walked, garments subtly transformed, shifting volume and line with each step.

There was no excess decoration; instead, technique became the ornament. This devotion to material intelligence felt especially resonant in a season dominated elsewhere by statement-making and spectacle.

The colour palette reinforced the mood. Muted earth tones, soft greys, and twilight blues created an atmosphere of calm continuity, occasionally punctuated by gentle warmth. These hues didn’t call attention to themselves; they settled into the garments, allowing texture and movement to take precedence.

Accessories followed the same logic as scarves, hats, and soft footwear blurred the line between function and expression, designed to integrate seamlessly into the wearer’s look.

Autumn/ Winter 2026 reaffirmed IM Men as a house less interested in defining how men should look, and more invested in how they move, breathe, and live in their clothes. It was a collection that felt quietly philosophical, rigorously crafted, and emotionally grounded.

by Imogen Clark

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