THE LATEST collection from Givenchy is a reiteration of menswear staples, as imagined through the lens of Matthew M. Williams. Denim two pieces, suiting separates, tank tops, bomber jackets, all given a France-meets-USA flare that combines William’s background with his artistic identity as creative director at the Maison.
For 2024, Williams perhaps takes a softer approach to his designs which differ from the usual promotion of industrial elements and futurism we have become used to. Stripping right back to basics, the collection is an accessible display of menswear that tells a story of growth.
There is a certain infancy present within the clothing at the show. Shrunken knitwear gives an illusion of clothing that is almost too small for the model, whereas over-sized suiting and trench coats create a narrative of a child trying on their parents clothing.
The combination of traditional menswear mixed with a sort of schoolboy sensibility and highlighter colours injects a sort of childlike playfulness into Williams creations.
This idea is echoed through his use of adornments and fabric manipulations. For instance, longline t-shirts are emblazoned with metal eyelets, paired with wide leg cargo and chino trousers that are cinched in by overlaying hooks, pieces which contrast more industrial gabardine and shirt and tie combos.
As with all Givenchy collections, accessories are integral to the looks and perpetuate the designer’s vision further. The schoolboy storyline is continued through backpacks and nylon technical bags, softened by jewellery that resembles orchids in an homage that nods to Hubert De Givenchy’s favourite flower.
by Ben Sanderson