SO no one told you Off-White was going to be this way. Shaggy hairstyles, polo shirts paired with baggy jeans and bleached pinks and blues make for a show of nineties sitcom styles (F.r.i.e.n.d.s). Literally titled Business Casual, Virgil Abloh returns to a time of loose uniform expectations for AW18; clashing acidic shades with pastel palettes to create a new but nostalgic collection. The smart-casual showcase for the upcoming season marks the designer’s first venture into tailoring. Off-White, globally recognised for its urban- appeal and use of leisure  silhouettes, is experimenting with formalwear in an unpredictable manner – one that feels miles away from its streetwear origins.
Marrying the throwback fashions with archetypal symbols and slogans of the ironic brand, updates the ensembles in ultra-modern ways. Leather blazers coupled-up with denim jeans and clashing colours feels like anti-fashion when brought into the context of today. Wavy patterns, plastic raincoats and two-piece tracksuits take inspiration from contemporary trends and merges them into the backward-looking mood-board of menswear at the heart of AW18 runway.
Abloh continues to push the boundaries of his brand further with suits and shirts replacing the street-style ensembles traditionally invented by the label. Complementing the Princess Diana collection from Women’s SS18, pin-stripes, muted hues and relaxed cuts all span the pre-millenimum era. Most intriguing about men’s AW18 is the focus turns away from the upper-class and looks to the everyday public for inspiration.
Muddy-look, paint-splattered, disorderly outfitting is inspired by work wear, taking the traditional garments worn in diverse trades and crafts and partnering them together to create forward-thinking, future crazes.
by Joseph Furness