I’M standing still, almost naked, snowflakes drifting onto my cold skin, breathing frozen air into my lungs. Just as icicles begin to form on my eyelashes, Patrizia opens the door to my cabin, and I’m back in balmy Tuscany, in the height of July, at Fonteverde Wellness Retreat & Spa.
Travel is about new experiences, and cryotherapy is certainly a first for me. Apparently, three minutes at -85°C works wonders for your skin, bones and immune system – science or psychology? Either way, I’m invigorated.
The Arch
Lux Thermal Pool
Back in the heat, swallows pirouette overhead as I recline on Fonteverde’s sun-drenched terrace. The rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia ripple into the distance, with vineyards and olive groves as far as the eye can see. A warm, lavender-scented breeze floats by, with a soothing chorus of cicadas completing the idyllic summer scene.
With espresso in hand and nowhere else in the world to be, I understand why even the staff admit they never tire of this view. Some places ask you to slow down. Fonteverde quietly insists upon it.
Totally, quintessentially Tuscan, Fonteverde is where modern Italy meets Medici grandeur. Built around an imposing Renaissance palace, portraits of austere Dukes line elegant corridors beneath richly decorated coffered ceilings and dark wooden beams. History is everywhere, yet the hotel never feels like a museum, balancing timeless elegance with contemporary comfort.
The Bioaquam Thermal Circuit
The clue to the town’s magic lies in the name: San Casciano dei Bagni, or baths. Tuscany has embraced thermal wellness for millennia, and Fonteverde’s award-winning spa is built upon this ancient, enduring tradition.
Each morning begins with a pinch-me view. Breakfast on the terrace is an indulgence, featuring local cheeses, fresh pastries, freshly baked cakes and no fewer than 12 regional honeys.
Suite Cristina di Lorena
Today’s challenge? Choosing between seven pools – cool freshwater, steaming thermal infinity pool, bubbling hydrotherapy baths and a cascading waterfall that pounds my shoulders into submission. And if your doggy fancies a dip, there’s even a thermal pool for four-legged guests.
For those wanting more than a soak, there’s plenty on offer. I find myself covered head to toe in mineral mud before being wrapped in cling film. Slightly disconcerting, but surprisingly wonderful. From thermal circuits and salt therapies to Ayurveda and cryotherapy, the spa blends ancient rituals with modern wellness.
Superior Room Valley View
Taste beyond the palette
Evenings begin with a Fonteverde Spritz on the terrace, and dinner celebrates the region’s exceptional produce. A steamed sea bass, theatrically served in its cooking bag, is a highlight, while nearby Podernuovo a Palazzone vineyard, owned by Giovanni Bulgari, offers memorable flavours. Pillowy gnocchi in tomato and roasted garlic cream sauce is followed by an exquisite dessert showcasing dark chocolate three ways. As for the wine, the Aliki Rosé steals the show, closely followed by the Therra Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend.
One of Europe’s most exciting excavation sites
Perhaps the most extraordinary discovery lies beneath the town.
In 2019, archaeologists uncovered staggering evidence of a Roman and Etruscan healing sanctuary. Bronze statues depicting healing deities and tens of thousands of coins and bronze offerings lay perfectly preserved beneath mineral-rich mud for over two thousand years. Unearthed during the COVID pandemic, the discovery felt poetic – a reminder of humanity’s enduring search for healing.
The stories are as captivating as the artefacts. The excavation began after Stefano, the town’s refuse collector, discovered Roman columns in fruit-seller Sergio’s garden, and they began to dig with astounding results. Locals believe the site could eventually rival Pompeii.
Val d’Orcia Panoramic View
More than luxury
Fonteverde reconnects you with a slower rhythm of life, where healing has flowed through the landscape for over two millennia. As I bid a sorrowful farewell to my sun-lounger, I’m relaxed, restored, and already planning my return.
by Natalie Stone
Prices start from 280 euro per night including breakfast.
For more information Fonteverde Spa