Womenswear AW16: Saint Laurent Paris

Stateside, an interesting way-point for Hedi Slimane to set on the continued evolution of Saint Laurent Paris but a galvanising one nonetheless. Presenting 93 AW16 looks at Hollywood’s Palladium Theatre in Los Angeles, Slimane took his love of bohemian California soul home, incorporating womenswear, menswear and unisex garments.


A move that was more Marianne Faithful meets Studio 54 on a comedown, Saint Laurent’s decadent soul was preserved by Slimane marvellously. Leather looks dominated, becoming brushed by military references and on the other end of the spectrum, velvet given an straight out of Robert Altman’s Nashville twist.



Looks were topped off by fedoras for an indie rock twist and coupled with dark sunglasses to conceal the after effects of the night before. This perfectly captured the laissez faire heroine luxe attitude that has no doubt become Slimane’s modus operandi in his position as creative director.


Women’s looks lavished romanticised ruffles around collars and festooned long, floor sweeping gowns and duster coats in floral arrangements and complicated animal prints, harnessed by wide belts. These often came about in glittering lame metallics with Slimane even going as far as to don one model in a particularly gilt-drenched number from head to leather booted toe. Calf-skin skirts cut closely to the body where also another good look for AW16, giving legs a long and strangely sinuous equestrian quality.

The f’row, as always, was equally drenched with a variety of glitter stars. From previous Glass cover-girl Jessica Stam to Joan Jett, no doubt an idol of Hedi Slimane, and prominent influencers such as Lady Gaga, Jane Fonda and Ellen DeGeneres. This celebrity turnout is proof enough that wherever Slimane moves Saint Laurent, essentially repositioning its sartorial DNA in the process, it’s still going to have all eyes on the clothing.

In any case, even despite prevalent rumours that the one-time entrant terrible designer is getting itchy feet at the helm of the legendary brand and the current industry fashion calendar shake-up, Saint Laurent is a brand that will live on.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Saint Laurent Paris

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