THE DRIVE from Bordeaux airport takes just an hour, and in that time I slip back in time – rolling grape fields soaked in the afternoon sun, broken only by the odd grey château standing proud amid the vines. When I finally reach Cognac, the town is drowsy after a long, bright day. Its stone façades slowly releasing the heat, the empty streets suggesting everyone has retreated indoors for an afternoon nap.
Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa
The town’s name has been recognisable for anyone glancing at a drinks menu since the 18th century, when Cognac mastered the art of turning cheap white wine into a premium brandy. The destination might seem like one reserved solely for connoisseurs, but to my surprise, I quickly found out there’s plenty to discover here beyond the spirit. A stroll past a 10th-century castle, a boat ride down the Charente River, or a lazy afternoon in the shaded corners of the Public Garden. Still, it’s the cognac houses that come most recommended – the real insight into the artistry behind the drink that made this small town famous all over the world.
Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa is my base for the weekend – arguably the finest address in the region. A grand gate opens onto beautifully lit grounds, where a long, green approach and the gentle trickle of water lead to a bright lobby with glass ceilings melting together over original wooden beams. This five-star property occupies what were once the ageing cellars of Monnet Cognac, the family firm of Jean Monnet, a man of many talents, but best remembered as one of the founding fathers of the European Union.
Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa
My room is spacious and bright; cream hues meet dark wood accents and touches of gold, a tasteful nod to the hotel’s heritage without overemphasising it. A tiny garden outside my window hides a small table, perfect for a late-night tea under the canopy of stars, so clearly visible in this part of France. Soft linens on the bed and one glimpse of the deep bathtub tell me exactly how my post-travel evening will unfold.
Premier Room
The following day I discover the grounds, strolling through the quiet maze of the corridors connecting the modern parts of the hotel with the old distilleries. Despite its 92 rooms, the place never feels crowded, and I barely pass another guest on my way to the spa. Out by the pool, I have a moment of silence all to myself, stretched out in the sun between refreshing dips.
The Spa
The hotel’s main restaurant is La Distillerie, a buzzing brasserie, popular with tourists and locals alike. From brunch to dinner, each dish arrives looking like it’s been lifted from a modern art museum: meticulously arranged trout gravlax with compressed watermelon and slices of bread stacked into delicate towers or pan-seared catch of the day resting in a dashi broth, finished with tiny edible flowers.
The real gem, though, hides one floor below. Michelin-starred Les Foudres sits among tall, century-old barrels, and from the moment I walk in it feels like the setting for a meal to remember. Sunlight spills through a small skylight, catching the pendant chandeliers and bouncing around the wooden room until everything glows in golden hues. The menu is rooted in the region, built around the freshest local produce, with every plate almost too pretty to eat, though not quite.
Les Foudres
It feels fitting to stay in the hotel which once was a cognac house itself, because the next day I set out to see how the real ones still run. Despite the fact that some sit just a few doors apart, it quickly becomes clear that no two houses are remotely alike. Hennessy and Rémy Martin are the names everyone knows, their warehouses lining the riverbank and the centre of town. Yet, it’s the smaller houses where Cognac’s craft feels the most tangible.
The first visit is Maison Brillet, where cognac takes the sweeter route: its Belle de Brillet spirit blended with pears, 18 of them in every bottle, to be exact. A quick tasting to lubricate the imagination opens the tour, and then I wander through buildings blackened by the angel’s share. On the other hand, in Jarnac, Maison Delamain is all heritage. Its cellars hold cognac dating back to 1875, and its signature blue is borrowed from the china at Delamain’s wedding. Even the bottling feels extremely precise: no water to dilute the spirit, as most houses do, only old cognacs that have lost their strength over decades.
A few steps further, Hine feels like another era entirely. It may be famous as Churchill’s daily favourite, but the house is anything but stuck in the past. A recent rebrand has given the bottles a look which feels modern and appealing to the younger crowd, while still maintaining the signature flavour, and it’s refreshing to meet a team so eager to introduce the cognac legacy to a new audience.
Exterior of Hôtel Chais Monnet & Spa
As the evening sets in, I find my way to Bar 1878, during sunny days, open on the rooftop of the hotel, overlooking the town in the distance. To no surprise, the drinks menu naturally features a strong selection of cognacs, giving me a chance to put my newly acquired knowledge to use.
I try a selection of contemporary cognac cocktails recommended by the attentive staff: a simple cognac and tonic, a refreshing sidecar (cognac, orange liqueur and lemon juice) and a French 75, my personal favourite, where gin is swapped for cognac.
The night ends with a stroll through town, which comes alive after dark. I weave between bars and restaurants full of animated locals enjoying drinks and small plates, and stumble onto a live band playing to a surprisingly large crowd, hands waving in the air. Cognac may never become my ultimate favourite drink, but after a weekend here, it’s hard not to leave a little in love with it.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit www.chaismonnethotel.com
Nightly rates at Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa start from €320 per room
To discover more about Cognac
Visit www.destination-cognac.com