ELEGANT, tailored garments were the backbone of Jason Wu’s AW18 collection at NYFW as a lightly pleated blazer with sheer skirt opened the show. Various techniques of fabric manipulation continue throughout the collection, similar to previous Wu runways, with ruffles and pleats featuring throughout the duration of the show.
Juxtaposition between smart-tailored clothing and casual garments, such as turtlenecks and jewelled sweaters, allow the collection to be relatable and appealing to a wider audience. Checked fabrics are used for unique dress silhouettes, with cut-outs and asymmetric hems fusing contemporary design with traditional materials. In addition to modern dresses, sheer black under layers mould to the body, from neck to foot, bringing an edge to this feminine collection.
A wash of bold colour takes over the collection, with electric blues and grass greens appearing in full outfits. Constant adaption of fabric manipulation carries the show, with earlier pleats now pushed further with twists and gatherings. Masculine button-down shirts conflict with delicate fabrics and reinforce the casual styling as the collection finishes with elegant, floor-length gowns in lightweight chiffon, embellished with scattered motifs.
by Todd Burns